3D Printer – Lannix Design https://lannixdesign.com.au Welcome To Lannix Design Wed, 09 Aug 2023 06:49:47 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.7.1 https://lannixdesign.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/cropped-LD_Logo3-32x32.jpg 3D Printer – Lannix Design https://lannixdesign.com.au 32 32 3D Printer Emissions https://lannixdesign.com.au/2023/04/12/april-2023-3d-printer-emissions/ https://lannixdesign.com.au/2023/04/12/april-2023-3d-printer-emissions/#respond Tue, 11 Apr 2023 21:30:20 +0000 https://lannixdesign.com.au/?p=3555

Since the birth of my son I have been increasingly concerned about the release of toxic fumes while our 3D printers are running. Those who have read our blog posts on building our 3D printing enclosures will have seen the ducting system that was designed and 3D printed for it. 

While that system works reasonably well, it is not perfect and occasionally the faint smell of the fumes can be detected. I’ve come to realise that the blast doors implemented in the system are ok for dust collection where larger particles are involved but are not ideal for extracting fumes. The lack of airtight sealing around them leads to fumes escaping.

I recently came across this document from UltiMaker that outlines the most effective ways to extract fumes from their 3D printers and it’s given me some helpful ideas on how to improve our current system.

If you’re interested in dealing with 3D printer emissions yourself follow the link below to read Ultimaker’s guide.

Link here.

IMG_20210719_163324.jpg

The current air filtration system in our 4 printer cabinet.

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Upgrading The Blue Prusa – How-To Guide https://lannixdesign.com.au/2023/02/15/upgrading-the-blue-prusa-how-to-guide/ https://lannixdesign.com.au/2023/02/15/upgrading-the-blue-prusa-how-to-guide/#respond Tue, 14 Feb 2023 21:30:51 +0000 https://lannixdesign.com.au/?p=3315

The blue Prusa we built for the assembly guide blog has been working nicely for a while now. There is always room for improvement though so we’ve decided to showcase this little upgrade that has proved to aid in print quality on our other Prusas.

Reasoning

To obtain the best print quality, especially when your model has overhangs, you need to cool the printed material as soon as possible after it leaves the heated nozzle. While the standard Prusa duct is adequate for most jobs, gains can be had by replacing it.

This air duct assembly by teookie on Prusa’s Printables.com was designed using CFD analysis to predict air flow characteristics and is designed to replace the standard Prusa ducting. Instead of the air flow coming from one just the front of the standard duct, the replacement part has the flow split into two and directed from either side of the print area. When printed in a high temperature filament such as PETG or ABS it is able to withstand the heat of the hotend.

Disassembling the standard cooling fan brackets

The upgraded part found on Printables.com

Conclusion

This is a simple upgrade for anyone who owns a Prusa Mk3S or MK3S+. It requires no wiring or special tools. In fact it uses only some of the spare nuts and bolt that you will have received with the printer. The cost is only a few cents worth of filament and about 15 minutes of your time.

I’d recommend doing this for anyone with the Prusa. Click on the screenshot above or the Printables.com link below to download the 3D models.

I’ll have more for you next week! Bye.

Gallery - Replacing the cooling fan ducting

Check out the Prusa build guide
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Prusa i3 MK3S+ Build Guide – Part 8 – Final! https://lannixdesign.com.au/2022/11/09/november-2022-prusa-i3-mk3s-build-guide-part-8-final/ https://lannixdesign.com.au/2022/11/09/november-2022-prusa-i3-mk3s-build-guide-part-8-final/#respond Tue, 08 Nov 2022 21:30:00 +0000 https://lannixdesign.com.au/?p=2831

This is it! The final installment of our Prusa i3 MK3S+ build guide. All that’s left to do is plug in all the cables and run some calibrations and the 3D printer will be ready for action. A video version of the build guide is linked below on our YouTube channel.

Many have trouble with the wiring process so I have attempted to highlight as well as possible where all the connectors plug in.

I hope this has been useful to those that have used this as a supplementary guide to assist with assembling your Prusa MK3. I’ll have more next week. Happy printing!

The fully assembled 3D printer, ready for calibration.

Gallery - Electronics Assembly - Connecting The Cables 1

Prusa Guide Page 114 (Step 21)

Gallery - Electronics Assembly - Connecting The Cables 2

Prusa Guide Page 121 (Step 34)

Gallery - Preflight Check

Prusa Guide Page 128 (Step 1)

Video - Z Height Calibration

Now that the 3D printer is fully assembled and the Preflight check is complete, you can run through the calibration process. Plug the printer into mains power and turn on the switch. You’ll be prompted to run the automatic calibration sequence which takes around ten minutes and is super simple. The final step is the Z height calibration shown in the video below.

Timelapse video of the Z height calibration sequence.

Check out the previous parts of the Prusa build
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Prusa i3 MK3S+ Build Guide – Part 7 https://lannixdesign.com.au/2022/11/02/prusa-i3-mk3s-build-guide-part-7/ https://lannixdesign.com.au/2022/11/02/prusa-i3-mk3s-build-guide-part-7/#respond Tue, 01 Nov 2022 21:30:43 +0000 https://lannixdesign.com.au/?p=2792

If you’ve been following our Prusa build guide, no doubt you’ve been hanging on the edge of your seat waiting for our next installment. The long awaited wiring guide is now here. 

Use this guide in conjunction with your included Prusa MK3S+ guide to build yourself an nifty 3D printer. This installment only deals with the cable routing so stay tuned to see how to plug the wires into the motherboard.

Cables routed, ready to plug into the Einsy board.

Gallery - Electronics Assembly - Cable Routing

Prusa Guide Page 102
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Fixing A Clogged 3D Printer – The Cold Pull https://lannixdesign.com.au/2022/10/19/fixing-a-clogged-3d-printer-the-cold-pull/ https://lannixdesign.com.au/2022/10/19/fixing-a-clogged-3d-printer-the-cold-pull/#respond Tue, 18 Oct 2022 21:30:16 +0000 https://lannixdesign.com.au/?p=2742

Once in a while everyone who uses a 3D printer will be faced with a clogged nozzle. It’s frustrating when you come back to a finished print and the top of your model is missing but it is a pretty simple process to unclog and start again.

Before going into the treatment, let’s touch on what causes clogs in the first place. There are a number of ways the nozzle can become clogged such as dust or contaminants from the atmosphere getting into the print head, contaminants in the filament itself or possibly parts of the 3D printer that have worn off and fallen into the mix.

We had a clogged nozzle on one of our Prusa Mk3s recently so I thought it’d be a good opportunity to document the unclogging process to help out others in the same pickle.

Follow the step-by-step pictorial guide to get your 3D printer back up and running.

The cold pull is your friend when faced with a clogged nozzle.

Gallery - Pictorial Guide To The Cold Pull

The cold pull isn’t always effective in getting rid of clogs but 95% of the time it’ll do the trick. I’ll try to document the process of dealing with more stubborn clogs if we come across one again in the future. For now, all is well with the printers.

Renovations are underway at the new house at the time of writing. The living area needs the most attention at this point so that we can move in at the end of November. The new Lannix design workshop will be the next priority after that’s done. There has been a deliberate slow-down in CAD and 3D printing jobs since my energy needs to be focused on getting the house ready. I’ll still be posting regular blogs though so until next week, happy printing!

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Prusa i3 MK3S+ Build Guide – Part 6 https://lannixdesign.com.au/2022/09/14/prusa-i3-mk3s-build-guide-part-6/ https://lannixdesign.com.au/2022/09/14/prusa-i3-mk3s-build-guide-part-6/#respond Tue, 13 Sep 2022 21:30:12 +0000 https://lannixdesign.com.au/?p=2551

Carrying on from last week’s guide to installing the LCD screen, we have the heated print bed and power supply unit (PSU). Though not quite as short as last weeks update, this one isn’t too taxing either. This is good because the wiring guide that follows can be a bit tedious experience so enjoy this!

I’m not sure when the next part will be published yet but it shouldn’t be too long to wait. Until then!

Heat bed installed, ready to install the power supply.

Gallery - Assembling the heated printing bed

Prusa Guide Page 92

Gallery - Assembling the power supply unit (PSU)

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Prusa i3 MK3S+ Build Guide – Part 5 https://lannixdesign.com.au/2022/09/07/prusa-i3-mk3s-build-guide-part-5/ https://lannixdesign.com.au/2022/09/07/prusa-i3-mk3s-build-guide-part-5/#respond Tue, 06 Sep 2022 21:30:35 +0000 https://lannixdesign.com.au/?p=2506

A nice short post on the Prusa i3 MK3S+ build guide. This weeks we’ll go through the simple process of installing the LCD screen onto the front of the 3D printer. Follow the pictorial guide in the gallery below to see what to do.

Stay tuned next week for the sixth part of the build guide where the heated print bed will be installed.

Attaching the LCD screen/control module to the main frame

Gallery - Assembling the LCD screen

Prusa Guide Page 86
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My First 3D Printer… https://lannixdesign.com.au/2022/07/27/my-first-3d-printer/ https://lannixdesign.com.au/2022/07/27/my-first-3d-printer/#respond Tue, 26 Jul 2022 21:30:39 +0000 https://lannixdesign.com.au/?p=2335

Let’s go back to 2016, a time before my son came along, before my partner came along and when I was still a struggling uni student tasked with designing an industrial gearbox given specific parameters from Wiji, the man in charge of the Design of Machine Elements unit.

3D printing was still a relatively new thing since the patents prohibiting the production of personal 3D printers had expired just a few years earlier. There were many companies getting on the bandwagon, producing machines to suit every budget. As a fan of scale modelling and all things DIY I was keen to get involved but my budget hadn’t allowed for it. I’d spent the previous year in Europe on student exchange and this had depleted the coffers.

Researching the various machines turned up the M3D printer and at $500 it was the cheapest on the market at the time. It was a Kickstarter campaign and the reviews were pretty good which had me thinking it would be ok. I managed to convince my old man that this might be a worthwhile investment. Gotta love the guy!

The first print that an M3D owner did was a bracket to fit the filament spool that clipped on to the top of the printer frame. It did this fairly well using the supplied 250gram roll of PLA. I then got to work in my spare time designing a chassis for a car that could  be 3D printed at scale to fit a plastic model kit. Unfortunately this is where the printer started showing its limitations. The first part I printed failed completely and all subsequent tries turned up the same result. I guessed that the detail was too intricate for the printer.

After I received a great result for the aforementioned gearbox design project at uni I thought I’d have a go at 3D printing the 3D model of it piece by piece. The parts would be bigger than those from the chassis so I hoped that they’d have a better chance at working out. The input shaft and bevel gear combination worked ok but it seemed that any round parts came out more oval shape with a weird lump on the side. 

The supports used on other parts was extremely difficult to remove and left the part looking terrible. A trial using ABS filament proved even more difficult. The part wouldn’t stick to the unheated bed and came out with scorch marks. The sales blurb insisted that ABS was possible but knowing what I know now, it just makes me laugh that they’d say this.

My first 3D printer acquired in 2016. Print is the filament spool bracket.

Let’s chalk this one up to a learning experience. No amount of tweaking this thing could get it to produce anything that could be considered acceptable for me. It may have been that the machine I received was a dud but online forums showed that I wasn’t alone in having trouble.

I see that M3D are still selling this 3D printer at the time of publication. I couldn’t recommend it and current reviews tend to agree with me!

If you are looking at getting a 3D printer, It’s probably worth the extra money to get a Prusa Mini. I believe it can be had for about AU$600-$700 delivered from the Czech Republic. At this price it won’t attract the import duty that the MK3S+ does.

Other companies like Creality make some cheap printers like the Ender 3 but they can be a little finicky to get working with the manual print bed adjustment and Bowden tube design. They don’t really exude the quality that a Prusa machine does but they do produce decent results when setup well. Some 3D printing experience is needed to achieve this though.

So, in conclusion, if you are interested in getting into 3D printing then the any Prusa will make it a more pleasant experience. If you don’t mind a bit of tinkering the Creality machines may be up your alley. These are the machines I’ve had experience with so I can’t speak about other brands. Just do yourself a favour and stay away from the M3D!

Laterz!

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How To Build A Creality CR10 3D Printing Enclosure https://lannixdesign.com.au/2022/06/29/creality-cr10-3d-printing-enclosure-build/ https://lannixdesign.com.au/2022/06/29/creality-cr10-3d-printing-enclosure-build/#respond Tue, 28 Jun 2022 21:30:58 +0000 https://lannixdesign.com.au/?p=2173

Sometimes you need to 3D print something that’s just that little bit too big for the standard Prusa MK3S print bed. I thought I’d try out a Creality CR10 since they are relatively cheap and the guy I know who has one seems to believe they go alright. Check out our guide on replacing the thermistor to see what I think! This printer is to be used mainly for prototyping for the R-Spec side business we have in the works so it will do the job for now.

I was getting some inconsistent prints from it where I had it setup in a spare room so I thought an enclosure may help with that. I tried fitting it into the large enclosure we already have but it’s just that little bit too large to fit with its separate control box. A new enclosure needed to be built.

Planning

Many find it easy to go into a project without a plan but I for one prefer to have something to refer to during the build. My projects just turn out better that way so the enclosure was designed using CAD and reference drawings were printed.

The finished enclosure in its temporary home.

Thinking long term, this  enclosure will end up living in the office of the new workshop so being a stand-alone design with its own base was critical. For now though, only the top half of the unit was built due to lack of space in the current workshop.

The door hinges required somewhat precise drilling for installation so I decided to make some drilling templates that could be 3D printed. They proved to be very handy and the door turned out perfectly.

Building

Material was mostly leftover from the other enclosure build which kept costs down. Some 3D printed parts gave an opportunity to inject some artistic flair. I wanted a shelf outside the cabinet to hold the control box in order to keep it away from the heat inside. 

The use of clear acrylic for windows made it easier to work with compared to glass and has the benefit of being a better thermal insulator as well. installing the acrylic also gave me an opportunity to use the router which was nice.

Installing the door hinges required the use of a Forstner drill bit for a 35mm hole. I’d never used one so I was keen to try it out and it worked quite well. A spayed bit would have left a hole in the side of the cabinet which was less than desirable. The templates I 3D printed also worked very nicely. 

Finishing

The shelf that holds the printer control box needed brackets and a ridge to keep the box from sliding off and smashing on the floor. Bunnings didn’t have a bracket that worked for me so I ended up designing something in CAD and 3D printing. The brackets were printed with four perimeters and 50% infill for strength. What I’ve been calling a ‘balustrade’ has been designed and 3D printed for the outside edge of the shelf. See what I mean in the gallery below!

All that’s left for the build is to acquire some insulating foam strip for the door and a suitable latch.

I hope you enjoyed the blog post. Talk to ya next week!

Gallery - CR10 3D Printing Enclosure Build - Part 1 - Design

Gallery - CR10 3D Printing Enclosure Build - Part 2 - Build

See more of our work
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Prusa i3 MK3S+ Build Guide – Part 4 https://lannixdesign.com.au/2022/06/22/prusa-i3-mk3s-build-guide-part-4/ https://lannixdesign.com.au/2022/06/22/prusa-i3-mk3s-build-guide-part-4/#respond Tue, 21 Jun 2022 21:30:41 +0000 https://lannixdesign.com.au/?p=2027
Building the extruder

Welcome to part 4 of the Prusa build guide! This is a big one! 

It’s now time to assembly the business end of your machine. The extruder assembly is where the filament is melted and placed onto the print bed to become your 3D printed part. Luckily Prusa have wired up all the necessary parts with plugs so that all we need to do is assemble them. 

I would say that the build gets a little more challenging here due to the smaller and more numerous parts used as well as dealing with cable routing that can get in the way of everything fitting well if not done right.

So, as mentioned before, this is a big update split across five galleries but there should be enough covered to assist you in assembling your MK3S+.

Check out the previous parts of the build if you haven’t seen them already. The next part should be published next month for those who want it.

The completed extruder attached to the X axis.

Gallery - Assembling the extruder - section 1

Gallery - Assembling the extruder - section 2

Gallery - Assembling the extruder - section 3

Gallery - Assembling the extruder - section 4

Gallery - Assembling the extruder - section 5

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